Words Jordan Phipps
Images Cameron MacKenzie
SAILING: NOT A TOPIC I’D BACK MYSELF IN AT A PUB QUIZ.
I couldn’t tell you the difference between a tack or a gybe, and getting on the foils sounds like something going on in the corner of a late-night party. To be really honest with you, I’m just frustrated I can’t pull off the boat shoe look!
But one thing I can get behind is SailGP and how epic it is to watch! This year, ōtautahi Christchurch played host to the ninth stop on the circuit – and there’s a reason why SailGP sailors voted Whakaraupō Lyttleton Harbour the league’s best location.
With so many viewing options, the hardest part was knowing where to start.
What is SailGP?
Basically, it’s a large, global sailing league. The brainchild of Sir Russell Coutts and American, Larry Ellison. After their magnificent defeat in the 2017 America’s Cup, to Team New Zealand, the duo came up with the idea to run their own championship. Keeping top sailors active, while creating an event that’s prime for television viewers. Whakaraupō Lyttelton Harbour is the base for all the action; a small port town in Canterbury with a funky vibe. Originally formed by the erosion of the Banks Peninsula volcano, this natural amphitheatre and stunning geographical feature is a serious bonus when it comes to watching the SailGP action, with near on 360-degree viewing options from up on the crater rim. With so many viewing options, the hardest part was knowing where to start. As the hub for the weekend, the waterfront was a hive of activity during the event – so much so that the small port town was temporarily cut off to the rest of the city. The roads were closed to non-residents with the only access being via buses or taxis, that run from Christchurch central city, on the Saturday and Sunday afternoon. I don’t know about you, but I’m not the kind of person to stay in one location for any amount of time. So, if you’re keen for a little adventure, where you can get full access to some of the best viewing spots on the SailGP roster, and you are willing to put a small amount of work in, then the following information is for you…. There’s just one thing – one small, insignificant little thing – separating us from that harbour… and that’s a hill. A hill that’s littered with mountain bike trails. Being a semi-organised kinda guy who tries to avoid leaving things to the last minute (don’t quote me on that) I figured getting out to explore some vantage points prior to the race madness would be a smart idea. A quick phone call to twist the arm of my buddy Clint, and a plan was hatched – the slightest mention of a cold ale and a shred on his PKU* and he was in.
*Pink Kona Unit – IYKYK
We flew along the road, mixing it up between Tarmac and Single Trail.
Christchurch is lucky enough to have some pretty epic cycle trails dotted all through the city, making it a breeze to link up some rad routes. Combining road, gravel and MTB trails was our goal. With a packed lunch strapped to the rack, we headed to the hills. I opted to take my commuter bike for a spin on this trip; laid back and chilled was the vibe I was after, and this steed hit the nail on the head. We quickly pested our way along the cycle lanes and through the lower hill suburbs and, in no time, we found ourselves rolling into the start of the Rāpaki track. A quintessential CHCH climbing trail, whether its cycling, running or a Sunday morning hot girl stroll, Rāpaki is a stellar way to get up on to the summit road. After battling our way up the track for a bit, we cracked the crest and took in the epic vista that lay before us. I know they say you can’t beat Wellington on a good day, but with views deep into the harbour and back across the Canterbury Plains, I’d say we’ve well and truly got Welly beat. But we weren’t stopping there; from the top of Rapaki it’s only a quick pedal out east towards Lyttleton. This section comes with a wee bonus – a flow on effect from the CHCH earthquakes means this road is now permanently closed to motor vehicles, so not having to worry about cars is a plus! We flew along the road, mixing it up between tarmac and single trail. Scanning around us, we spotted a couple of vantage points from the road. Bikes stashed below, we scrambled up the rocks of Witch Hill and took in the uninterrupted views of the harbour.
A mission undertaken on a bike I wouldn't normally ride, and linking up spots I'd never quite considered, made for an epic day.
Location 1 pin dropped – rocks of Witch Hill
With location one in the bag, it was time to get back on the bikes in search of location two. Eating gravel with the wind whistling through our hair, we quickly closed the distance on the Bridal Path and the descent down into Lyttleton. Here we slid into the lay-by perched on the saddle, and an eagle-eyed Clint darted off piste and into the shadow of the gondola. The views down to the village are class from here, and the ability to scan the harbour views are endless.
Location 2 pin dropped – off piste perch
With location two now locked and loaded, it was time for smoko. Down in Lyttelton, the options for kai were endless – we found ourselves parked upon the rooftop of an old familiar haunt, Eruption Brewing, for snacks and their signature Lyttelton GP Lager! The infamous Lyttleton market was humming below us, and we discussed at length the possibility of calling her a day here. With establishments like The Wunderbar, SUPER and the Lyttelton Arms, and the ability to load the bikes onto the bus and head back to the city, you wouldn’t blame us for staying. But, really, we were there for a mini adventure, and I still had a few ideas left kicking around my head – plus the thought of an ocean dip really tickled my fancy. The flexibility traveling by bike gives is unrivalled – we have the ability to dodge traffic, explore trails usually inaccessible by vehicle and, more often than not, we can save time by being able to shortcut off-road and link up tracks. It’s hard not to enjoy it. With lagers and hazys had, we finally decided to venture off. The pedal up and out of Lyttleton was relaxed; a freshly paved road carried us up to the top of Evan’s Pass, then up and along the Godley Head track. Rad! More singletrack. If you love a wee hill scramble, you’ll find it pretty easy to park up and view the festivities from above – we opted for the easy option and stopped to hydrate in the car park above the Taylor’s Escape trail.
Location 3 pin dropped – another great spot to scan the racing!
It was heating up and we’d bagged our locations. The beach was calling. Taylor’s Escape trail is a gem – handy in the fact it can be ridden both ways. It’s fun on the way up and still a hoot on the way back down – it also avoids the hectic, busy road climb back out of the bay. The return journey mirrored the day’s epic adventure; mixing the thrill of singletrack, descending with some cruisy road segments, then a quick stop for some caffeine to keep the legs spinning and it wasn’t long until we’d found our way back to the city. A mission undertaken on a bike I wouldn’t normally ride, and linking up spots I’d never quite considered, made for an epic day. I was left with the satisfying realisation that in chasing the wind and navigating the trails, we had not only found the perfect viewing spots for SailGP but also unearthed the spirit of adventure. Turns out you don’t need a multi-million dollar sailing regatta to enjoy the incredible views and exhilarating rides of Christchurch’s pedal pusher playground.